30 August 2009

Iceland: Day 10: The End

Today was the last day of the Iceland adventure. The plan was to spend the day exploring the Reykjanes peninsula (the area around Keflavik), which I did, seeing the lakes and hot springs.
From Reykjanes
From Reykjanes


But, the pull of Reykjavik was too strong, and so I went back for a few hours in the afternoon. I saw the museum about the earliest settlers to Reykjavik and the Solfar, a must-do photo in Reykjavik (and what you can't see is that the name of the ship out in the distance is Viking, which is very apt).
From Reykjavik
I think what I like about Reykjavik is its size. It is like a big city in miniature. It has all the things of a big city, but in a smaller, more approachable size (and with shorter walking distances). Hopefully I will get a chance to come back sometime. The same is true for all of Iceland. It was an incredible trip, with so many great things to see, and many more left unseen.

29 August 2009

Iceland: Day 9

This was another longish day with a number of places to see. First, I started off by seeing an reconstructed house from the early days of Iceland. It was quite interesting to see, but the doorways and passageways were very low and I banged my head a number of times.
From Thjorsardalur & Landmannalaugar


After that, I visited a small valley with a number of waterfalls and streams. It was a bit hard to get to as the road was somewhat rocky and merged with a streambed for a while, but I think it was worth it.
From Thjorsardalur & Landmannalaugar
Unfortunately, I could not get to all the point from which I wanted to take pictures because there was no way to cross the stream.

From there I went to Landmannalaugar to see the scenery there. To get there, you drive for miles and miles across a barren landscape. You begin to wonder just what kind of place you are going to.
From Thjorsardalur & Landmannalaugar
It turns out you are going to a very nice (and quite popular) place with lakes, mountains, and hiking trails.
From Thjorsardalur & Landmannalaugar
From Thjorsardalur & Landmannalaugar
After I returned, I realized that there was actually much more to see than the parts I had visited. I suppose that leaves something for the next trip.

From there, it was a long drive back to the hotel. Along the way I decided to make a quick stop off at Hekla.
From Thjorsardalur & Landmannalaugar
In retrospect, I probably shouldn't have. It was on my list as a place to hike, but I decided to do the rest of the day's activities rather than spend all day hiking up a mountain. I drove up the mountain as far as the road would go, which involved some pretty severe patches of road, and some very very steep sections. Combining that with being at the end of the day (and thus feeling a bit rushed) and having the sun in your eyes the whole way up so you can't see where you are going or take pictures meant I didn't really enjoy the time there. I should have settled for a picture from afar and saved it for another day.

28 August 2009

Iceland: Day 8

After a week of hard touring, I decided to take a less ambitious day and see some of the sights around the south of Iceland.
From Sudurland


One of the most famous sights is at Vik, where there is a black sand beach, cliffs, and rocks standing in the water.
From Sudurland

Just around the other side from Vik, is the famous rock with the hole in it.
From Sudurland
Out on the rock, it was so windy that all the birds were just hovering rather than flying. They were doing this just a few feet from me, so that provided some entertainment trying to get pictures of the birds.
From Sudurland


There were also some nice museums as Skogar and Eyrarbakki where old houses are located.
From Sudurland
From Sudurland


And, of course, there were waterfalls.
From Sudurland
From Sudurland


In spite of seeing a lot of things, today was actually an easier day. There was no rushing, just taking my time and going from place to place and stopping to see what I came across.

27 August 2009

Iceland: Day 7

This day was devoted almost entirely to glaciers. The Vatnajokull glacier is the biggest glacier in Europe, and has many arms that are easily accessible. I have seen many glaciers before, but the sheer scale of those in Iceland seem to dwarf those I have seen elsewhere. This tries to give some idea of the vastness of it.
From Vatnajokull


Getting right up close to the glaciers often requires taking some not-so-great roads.
From Vatnajokull
Let me know if you can see the road in that picture. But, the results are worth it when you are the only person around right at the foot of a glacier.
From Vatnajokull


Some have lagoons at the base of them, filled with icebergs. In this case, the ice is just has a few hundred yards to go to reach the sea.
From Vatnajokull


Now that you have seen the Iceland is full of volcanoes and now glaciers, you are probably wondering what happens when you mix the two. Not good things. This is what is left of the road bridge after the last eruption caused a bit of ice to melt and cause a flood.
From Vatnajokull
That takes a lot of water.

The funniest thing about today was that going to Skaftafell National Park to see the glacier there was the main goal. By the time I reached it, I had already seen so many glaciers that I had somewhat lost interest, and the idea of hiking for an hour to see a glacier with 100 other tourists didn't seem so appealing after all the ones I had seen with little hiking required and nobody around.

26 August 2009

Iceland: Day 6

There was not much of a plan for this day as it was mainly a transit day to get me from the parks from the last two days near Akureyri, down to the glaciers that are the next big objective. Iceland is not a small island. During my planning for this trip, I became even more aware of that fact. Now that I am actually here, I am acutely aware of it. Even having allowed for extra travel time, the distances between places are still greater than I had expected. Egilsstadir, where I started this day, is 300km from the glaciers I want to see tomorrow, and is 700km from Reykjavik (by paved road). These are non-trivial distances. Having done volcanoes, deserts, hot springs, and the like, I decided to take a day to see some different scenery. I decided to stick to the coast and drive up and down the fjords of the eastern part of the country. They are quite nice, and very like Norway. Unfortunately, the weather decided to be very rainy, limiting the number of useful picture opportunities.

The highlight of the was Seydisfjordur. It is not really a major tourist town, except that it is the major ferry port. But, the town had a captivating character with lots of colorful and well kept houses, and an old boat that I took way too many pictures of.
From East Fjords
From East Fjords

25 August 2009

Iceland: Day 5

After Myvatn, the next day was spent visiting Jokulsargljufur National Park. That is the one and only time I will be spelling that in the post. The park is composed of a gorge, a series of waterfalls, and unusual lava and erosion formations. If my guidebook is to be believed, the entire place was created in about three days as the result of a massive flood following an eruption. That's a lot of water.

The road into and through the park was rougher than I expected, so I didn't have as much time as I had planned to see all the sights. The first one up was Dettifoss, the largest waterfall in terms of volume in Europe. When you stand next to it, you can feel the ground shaking from the force of the water going over it.
From Jokulsargljufur NP


From there, the river enters the gorge. As you can see, it is quite narrow and deep, with vertical sides.
From Jokulsargljufur NP


There are a number of weirdly-shaped, enormous rocks scattered about.
From Jokulsargljufur NP
If you look closely at them, you can see that they are made up of millions of interlocking hexagonal columns of basalt (a type of lava rock) several inches to a foot across. It looks as though it has been put together by someone and that if you pulled hard enough, you could pull a whole column out. Rocks (some) are crystals too.

By the time you reach the end of the gorge, everything is peace and quiet.
From Jokulsargljufur NP


From there, I had a very long drive to my next stop in Egilsstadir. The side of the park that was supposed to have the "good" road, had a better-ish road until the last 30kms, where there was a sign that said bad road ahead. There have been plenty of bad roads so far, none of which had earned a sign warning of the badness. I expected the worst, and was right. The next 30km were some of the most intense washboard I have ever seen. I had to crawl along most of the way. I did make it to the main road eventually, and made it to the hotel in time for a late dinner.

24 August 2009

Iceland: Day 4

From Akureyri, I took a day trip to Myvatn, a lake and area of interesting volcanic formations scattered around the lake.
From Myvatn


Along the way, I made a quick stop at Godafoss.
From Myvatn


The forecast was for rain, and it rained very hard all the way to Myvatn, but fortunately it stopped once I arrived. First, I walked through Dimmuborgir, which is an area of cones or columns of lava.
From Myvatn


Then to Hverfjall, a giant tephra crater, and possibly the windiest place I have been. It is a huge crater, with a great view of the area. But, the wind was blowing so hard I had trouble breathing when facing downwind.
From Myvatn


After that it was to Hverir to see the fumaroles and boiling mud. Some of them were venting steam with so much force that they sounded like jets rather than something natural.
From Myvatn


Then it was down the road to Leirhnjukur to walk around some more recent (some as recent as 1980s) lava with steam drifting out. Unlike the other hotspots, the steam wasn't rising from well defined places, it seemed to be rising slowing from large sections of lava. This led me to think that the steam wasn't from underground water being heated, but from rainwater working its way through the cracks down to whatever hot stuff was below (though I could be wrong). It was definitely an interesting walk.
From Myvatn
From Myvatn


The last stop before returning to Akureyri was Stora Viti caldera, which was formed in the 1700s.
From Myvatn

23 August 2009

Iceland: Day 3

After Reykjavik, the next stop was the second biggest city, Akureyri, in the far north of the country. To get there, I took a different route than most would take. I took the Kjolur route through the barren interior highlands.
From Kjolur

It is the shortest route, but most people don't take it because it is a very rough dirt road. The first half or more of the route was much rougher than I had predicted; heavy washboard and pot holing forced me to slow way down to keep from rattling myself crazy. The interior passes a couple glaciers, lakes, and mountains, but is still a barren lava field for the most part. Along the way I made a couple of stops at Kerlingarfjoll and Hveravellir. Of the two, Kerlingarfjoll was by far the most spectacular. After a long drive to the base of the mountain,
From Kjolur
From Kjolur
you have to drive up a steep (I even got to use the low range!), rugged road up the mountain.
From Kjolur

At the end of the road there is a high mountain valley, with patches of snow and a stream. Vents of steam rise up from all over the valley and hillside. Wow. I wish I could have stayed there longer.
From Kjolur

Hveravellir was nice also for the number and color of its formations, but the location was not nearly as dramatic.
From Kjolur

From there, the road improved greatly and I was able to make it to Akureyri before it got too late.

22 August 2009

Iceland: Day 2

The first full day in Iceland was spent doing the main tourist sites that everyone sees when they visit Iceland: Gullfoss, Geysir, and Thingvellir. To make things more interesting, I took a scenic route to Gullfoss using a 4x4 road.
From Golden Circle
That took considerably longer than planned because of the bumpiness driving for miles through lava fields. It also involved a couple of stream crossings that weren't on my map (makes me wonder how big the ones that make it on the map are).

Gullfoss is as you would expect, a giant waterfall. The upper viewpoint definitely gives a better view, even though most of the tourists go to the lower viewpoint.
From Golden Circle


Next stop was Geysir to see the geyser.
From Golden Circle
Thankfully, the geyser goes off every 5-10min, so there was not a lot of waiting around to see it. It goes quite high and is justifiably a major attraction. All around the area are various boiling pots and hot springs bubbling up. The whole place reeks of sulfur.
From Golden Circle
Watching people in a place like that is amusing. There are ropes to keep people on the path, signs everywhere warning of very hot water. Still, people just walk right over the ropes and go right up to the edge of things. Surely a geyser would never go off while your head was leaning over it, or the ground near a boiling pot crumble and drop you in scalding water. And every single person seems to look at a pool of boiling water (with a sign that says it is boiling), wonder aloud if the water is hot, stick their hand in it, yelp, and declare it really is hot. I would have thought all the steam would have given it away.

Next stop was Thingvellir National Park. This is an important place in Iceland, as it is the location of the law rock where the predecessor of the parliament used to meet back in ancient times. The law rock is what you would expect, a big rock.
From Golden Circle
Interestingly, it happens to be right on the fissure between the North American and Eurasion tectonic plates. The North American plate towers behind the rock. Clearly, the North American tectonic plate is better.
From Golden Circle
There are also several other interesting sites to see in the park: a waterfall, a nice water-filled gorge, and a lake.

Once back in Reykjavik, I could get into my parking lot because all the streets downtown were blocked off. Eventually, I gave up and parked in the harbor, but still had no idea what was going on. I figured I might as well go out an investigate. Turns out that there was a culture festival going on in conjunction with the marathon that had been earlier in the day. The main streets were jammed. I am sure all of Reykjavik was there. There were two stages with bands and many of the bars had little stages setup with live music. I spent the evening doing what everyone else seemed to be doing, walking up and down the street, stopping when a band sounded good, moving on to the next one, and repeating. Reykjavik is the kind of city where the mom with the kid eating cotton candy is standing next to the tattooed guy with body piercings watching the punk rock band made up of guys in plaid. It was a lot of fun, and the music was quite good. Once I started getting tired and decided to head back to the hotel, I noticed that there was a huge crowd gathered around the harbor. Naturally, I had to investigate. The reaon was a fireworks display was about to go off from the harbor to close out the night. I had been a bit disappointed that I was missing the fireworks in Scheveningen this year, so I was glad to be seeing some. And, these fireworks were far better than any I have seen in Scheveningen. Finally, after all the music, all the walking, and the fireworks, I went back to the hotel and went to bed.

21 August 2009

Iceland: Day 1

Arrived in Reykjavik this afternoon and picked up my ride for this trip. The Defender is a strange vehicle. It is probably the worst thing I have ever driven, and the badness of it makes it a riot. Examples: when you close the back door, it sounds like it's going to rattle apart; when you open the air vents, you can look through them and see the road ahead; despite being a big vehicle, the driver seat doesn't go back very far, so you are constantly cramped; the parking brake (not the handle) comes on when going downhill; there is no tachometer, but there is a giant clock where one should be; half the controls are still where they would be for the right-hand drive version; above 80km/h, the whole thing starts to rattle and shake...a lot; the center brakelight fell off after the first bump; and best of all, the button for the horn is on the turn signal stalk, so you accidentally honk when changing lanes.

Reykjavik is a lovely city, there is no other word for it. It is a very pleasant size, the downtown and harbor areas are nice to walk around, and there are plenty of interesting looking bars and restaurants.
From Reykjavik
All around a nice area just stroll and relax. Iceland is also the knit country it seems. Everyone seems to be wearing woollen garments of various types.

01 August 2009

Zermatt: Day 3

The last day of hiking was also the last day in Zermatt, and also the last day of the trip. Before starting my hike, I took the cable car up to the top of the the Klein Matterhorn. It is very high up, so high that stairs are hard and people are skiing in August.
From Zermatt
The views are amazing, so I stayed for a while just soaking it all in.
From Zermatt


After that, I took the cable car part way down to the start of my hike. The plan was to walk along the matterhorn glacier and then down most of the way into town. The hike would be mostly downhill, but pretty long in terms of distance. After a short while, I reached here and changed my plans.
From Zermatt
I sat down on the edge of a little pool with no one else around. It was such a relaxing spot that I sat and skipped stones and took in the scenery for a while. After that, I was too relaxed to do a long hike and decided to take the same amount of time and cover half the distance. The scenery on the first trail in the original plan was so nice that continuing on to another trail would have only been a disappointment by comparison. So I walked slowly and stopped often.
From Zermatt
From Zermatt
From Zermatt

Once I reached the bottom, I was relaxed and destressed, just as you want to be at the end of a trip.