30 May 2009

Kutna Hora

It is hard to believe that after three years in Europe, I had yet to visit Prague. So, since it was a three day weekend, I decided there was not excuse to delay any longer. The weather, however, was not quite what I would have hoped for. In rare contrast to The Hague, which was sunny and warm, the Czech Republic was cool and rainy the whole weekend. The first day was the rainiest, and I decided to take a side trip out to Kutna Hora.

Kutna Hora is a very nice city not too far from Prague. The main attraction is the ossuary, where you can see a church done up in a very macabre style.
From Kutna Hora


The city center itself is also very nice with several nice churches.
From Kutna Hora

But, given the weather, I spent a lot of the time there having a long lunch inside where it was dry.

09 May 2009

Great South African Road Trip: Drakensberg

From Bloemfontein, it was off to Cathedral Peak for a couple relaxing days of hiking in the Drakensberg mountains.
From Drakensberg
The hotel was way out at the end of the road at the base of the mountains, really nice setting.
From Drakensberg

The hotel also included all you can eat buffets for all the meals. To my surprise, all the food was excellent. The one strange thing, though, was that they were a bit funny about hiking. They encourage hiking, but won't give you a trail map, and will give vaguely written directions only for some of the easier trails. I think they want people to take guides with them when they hike. But, when I hike, part of the reason is to get out and be alone. The first day I did a hike up to a rock overlooking the valley. It was a great view, but was very steep in places and did require a bit of rock scrambling to get up. That also meant it required a bit of rock scrambling to get down. I really dislike rock scambles down. It was a good hike, but I will say that the trail was not marked that well and vauguely written directions were a bit too vaguely written. The second day, I did a hike with a guide. It turned out I was the only one going on the hike that day, and so we did a different hike than originally scheduled (actually, the hike they refused to give me directions for the first day). The hike was pretty decent, but the weather was too cloudy to get good views. Got back early, had a snack, a shower, and a nice long nap before going to dinner.

The last day was entirely driving. I checked out of the hotel and made a leisurely drive to Johannesburg to catch the flight home, bringing the Great South African Road Trip to an end.

05 May 2009

Great South African Road Trip: Karoo

After Oudtshoorn, it was off into the Karoo. On the way out of town I stopped at Cango Wildlife Ranch to see the cheetahs and other animals.
From Cango Wildlife Ranch


From there, I drove on to Graaff-Reinet.
From Karoo
The town itself is a well-preserved and nice town.
From Karoo
I stopped off at the Valley of Desolation on the way into town
From Karoo

and at the Camdeboo National Park to see some wildlife.
From Karoo


It turned out that I was the only person staying in the entire hotel, and there was only one woman working that night. I found it hard to believe, but she managed to make an amazing dinner while serving at the same time, and still managed to find time to sneak away and do the turn-down service. Consistently in South Africa, I have been impressed by the quality of the food and hotels, and the quality and attentiveness of the service.

The next day I headed out taking the scenic route to Bloemfontein. I stopped off at Mountain Zebra National Park because, well, I wanted to see some zebras.
From Mountain Zebra NP

I spent a few hours driving around the park and saw lots of animals up close, including lots of zebras.
From Mountain Zebra NP

From Mountain Zebra NP

From Mountain Zebra NP

Seeing animals when they aren't in a zoo is a lot of fun. And, I'm getting pretty good at finding animals in the bush and getting up close with the car. Maybe I should be a safari guide? The only animal I didn't get to see was the rhino, which I was told they have a few of.

From there, it was a long drive to Bloemfontein, with lots of road construction. The countryside was beautiful, especially when there were storm clouds on the horizon, but I just didn't have time to stop and take a look. It was 8pm before I reached the hotel, and I was ready for some food and some sleep. Bloemfontein itself isn't really worth mentioning, I didn't stop to see anything there and, from what I saw driving through, I didn't want to.

02 May 2009

Great South African Road Trip: Little Karoo

After the wine country it was off to a few days in the little karoo. The weather was a little better for the drive and so I was able to see more of the countryside. Stopped along the way at the karoo botanical gardens, but there wasn't too much to see; I think it was too late in the year.
From Little Karoo


By the end of the day, I had made it to my hotel in Oudtshoorn, ostrich capital of the world. Again, I like this town a lot and notice that it has more restaurants per capita that anyplace else I can think of. However, when I got out of the car at the hotel, I saw the the one tire looked really low. I went to a gas station and pumped it full, but I could hear air hissing out. Just my luck. Called the rental car company and they tried to find a replacenent tire here in town. They failed, but just afterwards, the tire store called me up directly and offered me a used tire at a good price. Very shady. To make things easier, I put the spare on and drove 45min to then rental car office and picked a new wheel up from them. It was a good decision, because the drive down to it was quite nice. From there, I went to Mosselbaai to see a reconstruction of the ship that Dias used when he sailed around the cape. Next, I took the scenic way back to the hotel.
From Little Karoo

It turned out to be more scenic than I was bargaining for, about 100 miles on gravel roads. You'll notice a lot of the roads I'm taking on this trip are gravel. Along the way I passed through Calitzdorp. Another small town, but it seemed like a cool place. There were signs advertising a port festival in town, so I followed them to check it out. When I got to it, I had to pay to get in. They gave me a plastic bag, which I figured was to carry stuff, and a zip tie, which I could not understand what it was supposed to be for. I walked around and saw what there was to see and listened to the afrikaans country music performances for a bit. The very strange thing though, was that everyone had glasses or bottles of wine, but I couldn't find any place actually selling it. I was expecting tastings. Maybe I am really bad at finding stuff, or maybe it was a byob festival. Finally, I detoured through Seweweekspoort on the way back to the hotel. That was the start of my little karoo mountain passes adventures.
From Little Karoo


The next day I spent driving a loop around several of the mountain passes in the area. Most of these were on gravel roads, but for the most part they were in good condition. The drive was really great and the scenery spectacular.
From Little Karoo

One pass, however, I did not reach. It was on a road to no place and I ran out of time before I could reach it. The road sign said it was 40km and that it would take 2 hours to reach. (Plus another two hours to come back). I figured it was worth a try and hoped that I would make better time than the sign suggested. It turned out to be one of the roughest roads I have ever driven. In fact, it was probably a little crazy to try alone. Even though I had an SUV, I was forced to drive at a crawl because of the holes, rocks, bumps, etc. In the first hour, I managed 20km, so the prediction of 2 hours was looking pretty accurate. But, had I continued, it would have been dark before I made it back, and I did not want to try those roads in the dark. So, reluctantly, I turned around and crawled back the way I came. In addition to the passes, I stopped at Rust en Vrede waterfall (also on a nasty road), and at Cango caves.
From Little Karoo

The caves were very nice, and they are much more extensive than you can see on the tour, but the ones you can see have been over touristed. There was a lot of damage from earlier visitors and I'm pretty sure that none of the features are growing anymore, too bad.